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Car makers worry about their reputation. Well at least some of them do. But they also care about beating the competition by advertising for low maintenance cost. Those car manufacturers calculate the estimated annual maintenance cost based on changing the oil filer every other oil change, or 6000 to 15000 miles. This ultimately reduces the cost of the vehicle maintenance. On the other hand, oil filter manufacturers suggest that the filter is to be changed every oil change.

Now, which word should you take for granted, neither.I wanted to get a third opinion, so I interviewed many mechanics, and almost all agreed on the fact that the every other oil change is a false economy. All mechanics highly recommended changing the oil filter every oil change. This was back up by their experience, and science. today’s engines use a filtration process called “full-flow”. With this technology, all the oil that’s goes from the reservoir to the engine passes through the filter first. This means that the primary defense line to the engine’s crankshaft, and cam bearings is the oil filter. It’s purpose is removing unwanted solid entrants to the system, such as dirt, carbon, and metal particles. These entrants can damage the bearing, journal and cylinder wall surfaces once they reach the engine.

The filter absorbs and filtrates against abrasion and premature wear to the engine. Over time, the filter accumulates dirt that has been trapped, until it reaches a point where it is possible for oil passage to be obstructed. The filter should be changed before it reaches a point where it’s an obstruction to the flow of oil, or even facing the danger of becoming plugged.

The good and bad news in one, is that filters are designed to prevent from catastrophic failures due to improper lubrication, therefore it has a bypass valve, which will allow the oil to pass through with the dirt once it reaches the filtration capacity, preventing from loss of lubrication and allowing the dirt to enter the engine, and cause accelerated wear. In conclusion, oil filters cost less than ten dollars, so you may just as well change it with every oil change because the worst case scenario would be that you lost a 100 dollars over the life of your life. On other hand, the worst case scenario for not changing it on time is a new engine which would cost you no less than 1200 dollars.

Finding the right motorcycle apparel at a discount price has been made so much easier since the emergence of online motorcycle stores. Now you can shop for riding gear in the comfort of your own home. Never before could you hit 20 or 30 different stores and compare prices on apparel, but now with the invention of the internet its only a matter of minutes to find the best price on riding apparel or any other bits you want for your ride. Also the convenience of never having to leave your house and having all your gear delivered to your front door is a nice bonus.

In today’s market for motorcycle apparel and gear you have a plethora of choices as to what you want to wear. There are almost as many makers of quality apparel as there are when you just go clothes shopping. Some of today’s most popular gear is made by Icon. Icon really has its pulse on the market place, they are always pushing the envelope when it comes to design and style. Icon makes pretty much all the gear you could possibly want, jackets, gloves, boots, helmets, and even tank bags. They are probably the most searched for manufacturer of motorcycle gear on the web. One of the newer lines for motorcycle apparel is Arlen Ness. Now Arlen Ness or Ness Tech has made parts for cruiser bikes forever but has recently also decided to enter the apparel market with some really nice looking jackets. Arlen Ness gear is made to appeal more to the cruiser rider where most of the other companies mentioned here are geared towards the sport riding crowd. AGVSport is another well known line, they much like Icon make it all. You can get anything from a jacket to gloves and boots from AGV. AGV Sport makes very high quality gear. Alpinestars is another popular maker of motorcycle apparel. They manufacture helmets, gloves, boots, jackets and even one piece or two piece riding suits. The one piece suits really are more designed to be for track days, offering the best in protection that money can buy. For those of you that enjoy cruising more then sport riding you will find lots of chaps, vests and old school leather jackets are available by a variety of manufacturers as well as their being a lot of generic gear of that type being available. Back in the early biker days if you wanted a jacket you were pretty much stuck sweating it out in a leather jacket even when it was steaming outside. Now you can get mesh jackets that offer as much protection as their leather counterparts. The introduction of mesh jackets was a dream come true for anyone that lives in extremely warm climates. Also many of the gloves now come in a vented format which makes them perfect for warm weather riding. Gloves are now also being made out mesh material to make them even lighter and even more breathable therefore allowing your hands to stay cooler while still offering some protection. Sorry boots are usually still leather and can get quite warm, however in the last few years Icon and a few other manufacturers of apparel have come out with riding shoes which offer some of the same protection as boots but are way more comfortable. Alpinestars makes some really nice ones that double as regular tennis shoes just fine. If you are in the market for quality motorcycle apparel at a discount I would definitely recommend you hit the internet and shop to your hearts content. With so many makers and sites out there take your time and find the gear that you really want.

With the increasing price of petroleum fuel and the threat of climate change, the global community is on the lookout for technologies which can be of great help towards energy sustainability. Automakers like

How to Change Your Brake Pads?  Brakes are the single most important part of you vehicle, hands down. It is critical for your own and everyone else’s personal safety to make sure your brakes work properly. You shouldn’t be scared to change your own brakes, but you should be confident with your skills. If you don’t know the difference between a Phillips head and a flat head screw driver, you should bring your car to a mechanic.Preparation tips:Take plenty of time to familiarize yourself with the brakes before you start working on your car. Also work on one side at a time. This way, if you mess up you can reference the other side.Obviously you will buy the pads before you start. But which ones will you buy? Cheap, generic pads wear out quickly and even though you may be spending less money now, you will ultimately be spending more money and time in the long run. More expensive pads are less prone to leaving your front wheels covered in unsightly black dust.Changing the Pads:

1. Engage the parking brake put something behind the rear tires so that the car cannot move.

2. Loosen the lug nuts around the wheel.

3. Raise the car with a jack and secure it on jack stands.

4. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel.

5. Now you can see the brake calipers holding the brake pads in place against the rotor. There are two pads per wheel that squeeze the rotor. Use a C-clamp to compress the caliper piston into the caliper housing. This will make it possible to remove the caliper assembly and create enough space for the increased pad width of the new brake pads.

6. Unbolt the caliper mounting bolts and pull the caliper back from the rotor. Be careful not to bend or break the brake hose. Sometimes the caliper mounting bolts require you to use a torx or star bit instead of a normal socket. Plan ahead and make sure you have the right tools for the job to save yourself a trip back to the parts store before your brakes are disassembled.

7. Remove the brake pads from the caliper. Examine them for unusual or uneven wear. Is only one pad worn down? Are the pads worn down on an angle? These could be signs of problems that need to be addressed immediately.

8. This is also a good time to examine the condition of the rotors. If they have deep grooves, or if your car shudders when you hit the brakes, then you will need to get the rotors turned or replaced.

9. Install the new pads in the caliper. Usually, it’s best to place the inner pad first, then the outer pad second. You may have to depress the piston fully into the caliper housing in order to provide enough space for the new pads.

10. Once the pads are properly seated in the caliper, put the caliper back on the rotor and bolt it firmly in place.

11. If everything is correct, you may put the wheel back on, hand tighten the lug nuts, and lower the car to the ground. Finish tightening the lug nuts in a star pattern so that they are even.

Replacing your pads is rather simple if you know what you are doing and have the right tools. If it’s your first time you might want to call a buddy over just to make sure to don’t skip any steps. Important: test your brakes before taking your car into traffic. Stop and start a few times just to make sure everything is installed properly.

It is usually a cold engine, which is exposed to extreme weather that most often is difficult to start. However, hot engines sometimes have problems too. Hot engines can be tough to start, and many people do not know how to deal with this situation when it occurs. With the intention of overcoming this dilemma, it is important to know exactly why it happens. The most common reason why a hot engine will not start is because the problem is related to fuel. When your car engine is too hot, fuel cannot circulate well, due to the way vapor obstructs it workings and therefore the engine just will not start, as it should. You should keep your engine running at the correct temperature and to protect its alloys and metals, you need to use a properly designed coolant. A car engine will keep gaining temperature until it has been turned off. During this time is when the highest concentration of vapor is circulating around and chances are, that it shall obstruct the engine to a greater extent. Obviously, when and if you are driving in hot weather and have just turned off the car engine you may experience start problems. The solution is simple; you must wait for a few minutes until trying to start it again. The most sensible solution of course, is to use a high quality engine coolant. Fuel injected engines do not experience this problem as much as other engines, because the fuel remains inside the injectors under high pressure. Owing to this, fuel injected engines do not become so easily subjected to vapors as other engines. Therefore, the vehicle does not have the same issues when it comes to starting a hot engine. It may be time to change over your old vehicle to a newer model with fuel injection.Another reason why you may have an engine, which is hard to start while hot, is that it may be due to seasonal weather as refiners change from one fuel blend to another. Petrol refiners often change a higher volatility fuel to a lower one when summer approaches. This is simply because hot weather causes fuel to evaporate more quickly. If refiners change back to a higher volatility fuel, while vehicles are still exposed to days of extreme temperatures, this may cause swift evaporation of the fuel which, in turn would create too much vapor within the engine.

One of the most common problems with an A/C system is refrigerant leaks and locating them. Finding the source of the leak can be a tedious and time consuming. The leaking Freon could come literally anywhere in the system from tubing to a accumulator to a tiny pressure switch gone bad. The EPA has made it much more stringent rules in dealing with refrigerant leaks. The days of topping off the air conditioner with a few cans of R12 are long over. Now even small leaks must found and corrected. Here comes technology to the rescue. There are several methods air conditioning repair shops employ to locate and fix refrigerant leaks. Each method has its pros and cons and their use depends on the situation. The three most commonly used are a electronic refrigerant leak detector, ultraviolet dye leak detection kit, and ultrasonic leak detector units. Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detectors Electronic Refrigerant Leak Detectors are the quickest and easiest to use of the three methods. Most of the time you will have no idea where the refrigerant is leaking and have to narrow down the possible areas.  An electronic refrigerant leak detector can get you very close to the location of the leak and from there you can get more precise. Some of the better models will allow to crank up the sensitivity once you get the area found. For very small leaks you can wrap the suspected area in cling wrap or a rag to try and contain the refrigerant. When you unwrap the area, put in the refrigerant leak detector and see if you get a reading. Remember, refrigerant is heavier than air and it will sink to the ground. It is best to sniff under tubing and compartments when looking for it. Ultrasonic Leak Detectors These are state of the art leak detectors and are the newest tool to find refrigerant leaks. They operate on the principle of sound detection. Instead of sniffing for refrigerant gas they listen for the sound it makes as Freon escapes the system. To use an ultrasonic leak detector the system should be pressured in order for the refrigerant to leak out and make noise. Also, the work area must be totally silent. Remember it is looking for sound and no background noise is imperative. This is the main drawback to using an ultrasonic leak detector. Very few auto shops are quiet enough to use it effectively. Ultraviolet Dye Leak Detectors This third method ultraviolet dye is injected into the air conditioning system and in theory should escape with the refrigerant. Commonly, an auto shops have an ultraviolet leak detection kit that has all of the tools necessary to complete this task. Generally these kits come with ultraviolet lamp or ultraviolet flashlight, a dye injector, safety glasses and ultraviolet dye. This method is the most technically complex of the three and is the messiest. You have to inject the ultraviolet dye into the system and wait for it to leak out. The dye can be messy and get all over the place. It gets in your A/C system, your refrigerant manifold gauges and you. However once you shine your ultraviolet flashlight and spot the leak, you usually can see exactly where it is. Each method has its pro and cons. For the beginner, I would recommend an electronic refrigerant leak detector and the professional auto shop would be better served with an ultraviolet leak detection kit.

When you’re going in for your next car purchase keep your eyes peeled for the following scams.

1. The VIN# Window Etching Scam - Some dealers will charge you $300-$900 for window VIN# etching and tell you that you have to pay the money to get the loan because the bank insists on it. Don’t go for it.  Some dealers might tell you that the etching is free but will add on the etch money to your monthly payments to make up for it. Anytime a dealer says something is free, get it in writing and check your monthly fee. The best way to avoid this scam is to force the dealer to put it in writing if they say that the etching is free or simply etch the car yourself.

2. The Financing Scam - You trade in your old car in and the finance manager signs you up at the agreed interest rate and gives you the car. After a week or two passes and he/she calls saying that you didn’t qualify for the interest rates that they gave you when the deal was made.  Every new purchase has a clause in the contract that usually states that the deal is “subject to loan approval.” This gives the finance manager an opening to get more money out of you. All that this clause means in the contract is that the deal is not finished yet even if you already have possession of the car and have signed the contract. The dealer can then charge you $1000 more in finance fees and up your monthly payments by $50. This scam is generally pulled on people with bad credit because it is more believable.  You can avoid this scam by not financing the car with the dealer if you know that you have bad credit. You are better off going to a credit union and financing the car yourself. When you buy a new car the deal should be made on the price of the car, not on the monthly payments.

3. The Credit Score Scam - This is desperation in action. This is when the finance manager tells you that your credit score is lower than it really is so that they can get you for higher interest rates. This scam is pulled on everyone; good or bad credit. This scam is easy to avoid. Just get your own copy of your credit report from Equifax.com, and bring it with you.  It’s pretty hard to lie to you about your credit score if you have your own copy of it. If your paper and theirs doesn’t say the same thing, you might want to shop elsewhere because that dealership is sleazy. Don’t hesitate to let them know it too because it’ll be nice to watch them try to back out of that one.

4. The Forced Warranty Scam - This is when the finance manager tells you that you are not eligible for the loan by the bank unless you pay an extra $2000 for a 2-3 year extended warranty. It’s hard to believe they even try this. Why would the bank trust you to pay a $22,000 loan for the car, but they will not trust you to pay for a $20,000 loan?? That’s just insane.  You can avoid this scam by forcing them to put it in writing that you “have” to pay the extended warranty in order to get the loan. Just let them know you’d like to check with the contract your local State’s Attorney’s office for validity and they’ll drop the extended warranty in a heartbeat.

5. The Dealer Preparation Scam - Unfortunately, this is legal and very much common practice. I still refer to it as a scam because it is just another way to get more money from you for nothing. The dealer will tell you that you have to pay an extra $500 to cover the labor costs of the dealership’s 5-point inspection. This alleged check up that you are paying so much money for, is for the dealership to remove plastic from the seats, vacuum the car, maybe, and make sure all of the fuses and fluids are ready to go. When factories deliver the new cars to the dealerships the cost of delivery and preparation is already covered, so basically you are paying the dealership for work that they haven’t really done.  You can avoid this scam by simply asking the dealership to add an extra $500 credit to the deal to make sure you do not have to pay the money. If they refuse, the choice is yours. If you think it’s fine buy the car, if not; try another dealer that will remove the dealer preparation costs.  If you can avoid these 5 car dealership scams when buying your next new car, you’ll be way ahead of the game.

There are many ways to control the cost of your motor insurance premiums and even reverse recent increases in some cases. Here are just a few tips that can save you well over 10% on your car insurance this year.

1. Search online for the best quotes. Often, car dealers work with a specific insurer “for your convenience”. Before snatching the first motor insurance policy you find, do some research and shop around. Use a price comparison site to compare multiple policies side by side. Car insurance quotes can vary by hundreds of pounds for the exact same cover.

2. Buy online at the insurer’s site. Many, if not most, insurance companies offer hefty discounts when you buy your cover online. Why? They save money on time and agent commissions that way. It’s standard to offer a 10% discount when you buy your car insurance online. While not everyone can buy online, there can be significant savings if you can and do.

3. Review when you renew. Don’t simply renew you policy when the time rolls around. Go over it to make sure that it still meets your needs and circumstances - and then request a new quote. Insurers will nearly always offer a lower quote when you’re shopping around for policy than when they think they have you hooked.

4. Secure your car. Since your premium is based on the risk of damage or loss of your car, every step you take to make your car more secure and safe will reduce your premium. Park it off street or in a garage, add a steering lock or an alarm and see your premiums go down.

5. Drive less. The less you drive, the less your chance of being involved in an accident. If your mileage is lower than the norm, inform your insurer and find out if they offer a low mileage discount.

6. Be honest on your application. While this technically will not lower your insurance premium, it can make a huge difference when you make a claim. It may be tempting to claim your auntie’s suburban address as your garaging site and knock a few pounds off your premium - but if you need to make a claim, the insurance company could find out. If they prove you misrepresented the facts on your application, your claim will be declined and may end up liable for any damages from the accident to boot.

7. Pay in full at the start of the policy. Check with your insurer to find out if you’re charged more for paying in installments. In essence, when you pay in installments, you’re taking a loan from the insurance company for your premium, and paying them back - with interest.

8. Pay by direct debit. If you do choose to pay in installments, find out if your insurer discounts your premium when you pay by direct debit. Since direct debit greatly decreases the likelihood of late and missed payments, most insurers are happy to knock a few quid off the premium when you pay that way.

9. Add an extra driver to your policy. In some cases, adding an additional driver to your policy will lower your premium, especially if that driver is older, female and has a good driving record.

10. Take a defensive driving course. Many insurance companies will discount your premium if you complete a course in safe or defensive driving. In general, anything that reduces your accident or loss risk may lower your car insurance premiums.

How many times have you heard someone say, that car has such-and-such horsepower, and wondered what that actually means? One has to wonder what kind of horse is used as a benchmark and what that means when you step on the gas pedal. Although they are just about the only means for measuring engine power, horsepower and torque as they are currently measured, are actually very poor standards for comparing vehicles and their potential performance.Horsepower is derived from a complex formula, but basically it is an amount of work over time. As it relates to cars, horsepower is most relevant to top end speed, not necessarily acceleration.If you are using only one figure to compare vehicles, look at the torque rating, as it is the twisting force an engine can produce, and essentially how powerful the engine is.Examine horsepower and torque ratings on high end sports cars, and you will find that they are also matched by impressive torque ratings. Extremely heavy duty vehicles that require a lot of power and not necessarily high top speeds, such as pickups designed for towing (especially those with diesel engines), tend to have torque figures that dwarf their horsepower rating. Muscle cars and diesel engines, which are known for brute power, tend to have similar horsepower and torque ratings, with many of the most powerful models producing around 300 horsepower and 500 pounds of torque.However, horsepower and torque are not the only factors that determine a car’s performance. Looking at only horsepower and torque, two vehicles may be similar, but one may be a muscle car and the other is a dump truck. Dividing horsepower or torque by vehicle weight will give you power to weight ratios, which has a big impact on acceleration and performance.Even using power to weight ratios ignores one basic fact about how power ratings are obtained. Instead of measuring how much horsepower or torque gets to the wheels, these figures are measured on the back of the engine, which does not take into account how much energy is lost in the transmission. This discrepancy is magnified when comparing front wheel, rear wheel, and all wheel drive vehicles since each configuration requires a different amount of power to turn the wheels.In addition, the gearing of the transmission determines how an engine’s power is used. The same engine can be paired with different transmissions to produce faster acceleration or pulling power by varying the gear ratios. Because of this, a properly geared vehicle could out perform another with higher horsepower and torque ratings.As you can see, the way horsepower and torque are measured provides numbers that do not necessarily reveal how a car will behave when you step on the gas. These figures would be much more accurate and helpful to consumers if they were obtained by measuring the power actually delivered to the wheels, and also using these figures to place power to weight ratios on the window sticker.As you can see, the way horsepower and torque are measured provides numbers that do not necessarily reveal how a car will behave when you step on the gas.

Okay, you’ve made the decision: you’re going on a cross-country vacation, and instead of renting a car, you’ll be taking your own. Take these few simple precautions to ensure that your trip is as safe and enjoyable as possible:1) Plan your trip strategically.“Doing your homework” may not sound very exciting or romantic, but many an adventure has been derailed by lack of planning. Know where you’re going, the route you expect to take, and how long it should take you to get there. Travel-related Internet sites and your local AAA can help you to plot a course, find lodging and fuel stations, and avoid construction or heavy traffic. Have a good road atlas and maps in the glove box.2) Make sure that your car is mechanically sound.Before embarking on our trip, make sure that your vehicle is in top condition: engine, cooling systems, brakes, and other vital systems. Check the oil and other fluids before leaving. Lastly, make sure that your tires are in top condition and properly inflated; the experience of having to change a flat tire or wait on the roadside for assistance is not likely to enhance your vacation.3) Be ready for common (and uncommon) roadside emergencies.Forewarned is forearmed. Though it may seem unlikely, proceed as if you expect to get a flat tire or a radiator leak. Pack the standard essential items such as a tire-changing kit (including a spare tire), jumper cables, and road flares. Beyond that, let your imagination roam and prepare for the worst—carry extra windshield wipers, an approved gasoline container, motor oil, elastic tie-downs, or whatever else you could potentially need.4) Carry food and beverages in the car.Even if you plan to stop for meals, it never hurts to have provisions in the car with you. If you break down in an isolated area, you’ll at least have food and drink to sustain you until help comes.5) Pack a standard first-aid kit.Prepackaged first-aid kits come in a variety of sizes and levels of complexity, and are easy to just stow in your car. Packing your own kit, though, allows you to individualize its contents according to the medical needs of you and your family. Include standard first-aid fare like bandages, antiseptic ointment, an antibacterial cleanser, alcohol, tweezers, and fingernail scissors. For medications, include an analgesic, an anti-diarrheal, a medication for motion sickness, and an antihistamine.6) Make frequent stops.For reasons of health and comfort, it’s far better to make frequent stops. Individuals who are elderly or suffer from poor circulation should be able to get out of the car and move around briskly, about every 90 minutes if possible. Individuals who aren’t will still benefit from short, frequent bouts of exercise to relieve the stiffness and discomfort of sitting immobile for extended periods of time.7) When fatigued, stop for the night.Often vacationers try to “drive straight through,” making as few stops as they can manage. Sure, this may get you to your destination a little more quickly…or it may keep you from arriving at all. Fatigue dulls your senses and slows your reaction time, decreasing your ability to respond quickly and effectively to circumstances. The usual remedies for sleepiness while driving—rolling down the windows, turning up the radio, and drinking caffeinated beverages—only postpone the inevitable. Stop somewhere for the night, if you can. If necessary, pull over to the side of the road and revive yourself with a short nap. If your body’s trying to tell you that it needs rest, it’s best to listen.